Saturday, July 2, 2011

The South East Asia Sea Islands

Countering Beijing in the South China Sea - Why the U.S. must not let China’s territorial ambitions go unopposed.

The most dangerous source of instability in Asia is a rising China seeking to reassert itself, and the place China is most likely to risk a military conflict is the South China Sea. In the second decade of the 21st century, the seldom-calm waters of the South China Sea are frothing from a combination of competing naval exercises and superheated rhetoric. Many pundits, politicians, and admirals see the South China Sea as a place of future competition between powers.

Speculation about impending frictions started at the July 2010 asean Regional Forum (arf) when U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton delivered an overdue statement on American interests in the South China Sea. Clinton averred that the United States has a national interest in freedom of navigation in the South China Sea; that the U.S. supported a collaborative process in resolving the territorial disputes there; and that the U.S. supports the 2002 asean-China declaration on the conduct of parties in the South China Sea.

Despite Clinton’s statement of support for China’s own agreements with the Association of Southeast Asian Nations, China’s Foreign Ministry responded negatively, claiming that the secretary’s statement was “virtually an attack on China.” China’s military stated that it was opposed to “internationalization” of the six-country dispute and commenced a new and unusually large naval exercise in South China Sea the very next week.

This gathering maritime confrontation is instigated by China’s assertions of sovereignty over the entire South China Sea and its stated intention to enforce that sovereignty. But the source of China’s hubris is its view of its historic mandate to rule all under heaven. Extending China’s borders a thousand miles across the South China Sea is only one policy manifestation of this vision of a new Chinese world order. Consistent with its Sinocentric ideology, Beijing believes its authority over its smaller neighbors should include determining their foreign policy.  After Clinton challenged China’s claim to the entire South China Sea, China’s foreign minister reportedly glared at a Singaporean diplomat and pronounced, “China is a big country and other countries are small countries, and that’s just a fact.”1  More telling of China’s opinion of its position among nations, the following Monday China’s Foreign Ministry posted a statement that “China’s view represented the interests of ‘fellow Asians.’”

Consistent with its Sinocentric ideology, Beijing believes its authority over its smaller neighbors should include determining their foreign policy.

The competing territorial claims in the South China Sea are decades old, but today the Chinese government is full of a sense of accomplishment and the People’s Liberation Army is flush with the fastest growing military budget in the world. Clinton’s statement may have been inspired by earlier statements by Clinton’s Chinese counterpart, the state councilor responsible for foreign affairs, Dai Bingguo, directly to Clinton herself and repeated to several U.S. aides that the enforcement of China’s sovereignty over the South China Sea was a “core interest” on par with Taiwan and Tibet. While Dai Bingguo reportedly has desisted from using the term “core interest” to describe China’s maritime sovereignty, personalities in China’s military still do. In January 2011 the web site of the People’s Daily, the official organ of the Chinese Communist party, surveyed readers about whether the South China Sea is China’s “core interest”; 97 percent of nearly 4,300 respondents said yes.2

Short of a shooting war, protecting freedom of navigation in one of the globe’s busiest sea lanes requires an amicable resolution of the competing territorial claims. Starting a process to resolve or neutralize the problem will require American leadership and resolve. Firm diplomacy backed by convincing naval power and patient leadership can strike a balance in the region that protects freedom of navigation, the integrity of international law, and the independence and sovereignty of Southeast Asia’s nations.

The worst solution to the South China Sea dispute from the U.S. point of view would be for China’s asean neighbors simply to acquiesce to Beijing’s position and for the entire South China Sea to become the sovereign territory of the People’s Republic of China (prc). The Beijing position is also the worst solution for the asean and every other trading nation on the planet. But an almost as bad solution is for the U.S. to become involved in a bilateral confrontation with China without the firm endorsement and commitment to American actions by the other littoral claimants and by America’s Asia-Pacific allies. Without the support of regional alliances, the U.S. would be entangled in a campaign at the far end of its logistical tail but deep inside the reach of a large and rising power.

The ideal solution would be for the asean countries to stand up to China and insist on a multilateral resolution to the disputes based on the provisions of the United Nations Convention of the Law of the Sea and the code of conduct specified by the Treaty of Amity and Commerce, which China signed in 2002. This solution is not possible unless asean develops the political, economic and military resources to challenge China’s influence. In the short term, backing from the United States and other regional powers including Japan, India, and Australia could be an incubator while asean develops an indigenous deterrent capability. In the long term, it must stand up for itself.

ASEAN will be reluctant to accept American assistance if it is presented as a part of a great power, anti-China geopolitical policy. China is not only a neighbor to Southeast Asia, but also its most important trading partner, investor, and occasional political ally. Asserting a Chinese menace and asking the asean countries to participate in an anti-Chinese coalition is a recipe for policy failure. Instead, the United States must articulate a vision for the nations of Asia that contrasts with the re-imposition of ancient Chinese hegemony. That vision should include the traditional Western principles of open commerce, political independence, and territorial sovereignty.

The South China Sea Problem

Six countries claim the islands of the South China Sea: the People’s Republic of China, the Republic of China (Taiwan), Vietnam, Malaysia, the Philippines, and Brunei. The prc and Taiwan (as rival governments of “China”) claim the South China Sea by virtue of cultural artifacts, ambiguous literary allusions, and outright occupation. Vietnam also claims all of the islands in the South China Sea based largely on historical documents, Japan’s postwar abandonment of title to the South Sea islets, and the legacy of French colonial deeds to several key South China Sea islets. The Philippines, Malaysia, and Brunei claim all or parts of the Sea’s southern swath of Spratly Islands based largely on their respective Exclusive Economic Zones ( eezs) and continental shelf. According to unclos, an eez extends 200 nautical miles from the low-water line on a country’s coast. China’s published map of the South China Sea shows a dotted line extending all the way to the eez of Indonesia’s Natuna Island, potentially enlarging the number of conflicting claimants to seven.

This problem is not an arcane legal issue, but a near and dangerous threat to the global economy and to the regional ecology. The sea lines of communications through the South China Sea connect Europe and Asia, making the sea one of the busiest waterways in the world. Almost half of world shipping passes across it, and from the Middle East a significant portion of northeast Asia’s oil. The South China Sea is also rich in hydrocarbons in various forms, and the full exploitation of these resources is hampered by unresolved boundaries and blatant military intimidation. Lastly, because of overfishing, there is a marked decline in the overall fish catch, inspiring fisherman to use more aggressive techniques. With no multilateral agreement to regulate fishing in the South China Sea the fishing industry and sea ecology are rapidly approaching disaster.

Disputes over the South China Sea are not arcane legal issues but dangerous threats to the global economy and to the regional ecology.

China’s claim. All the claimant countries justify their respective territorial claims using highly interpretive definitions of unclos articles. Only China, however, exhibits the combination of broad territorial claims; economic, political, and military strength; an uncompromising diplomatic stance; and demonstrated aggressiveness in pursuing its objectives. This unique combination of traits makes Beijing at once the most important player in resolving the territorial disputes and the biggest obstacle to doing so.

When discussion turns to diplomacy and a negotiated resolution to the dispute, Beijing persists in reminding all other claimant countries that the South China Sea is Chinese sovereign territory and refuses to negotiate unless the parties accept China’s indisputable sovereignty. To date, China’s tactic is to engage in talks only bilaterally and avoid objective adjudication through <<span class="smallcaps">unclos procedures or any outside parties. Additionally, China has made declarations and provided highly interpretive definitions that exceedingly complicate the resolution process and put China on a collision course with the rest of the seagoing world.

Continental shelves and the impracticality of drawing coastal boundaries for countries with complex and deeply indented coastlines, like Norway, or for archipelagic states, such as the Philippines or Indonesia, were recognized in such unclos provisions as Article 7 (“Straight baselines”), Article 47 (“Archipelagic baselines”), and Articles 76 and 77 (“Continental Shelf”). These articles permit countries to draw straight boundary lines across complex or closely spaced coastal features and islands as long as they do not interfere with customary freedom of navigation. Beijing, however, extends the definitions of these articles by applying them to its claimed islands and coastal features.3

The Standing Committee of the National People’s Congress adopted the “Law on the Territorial Waters and Their Contiguous Areas” (Territorial Sea Law) on February 25, 1992. This law does not specify China’s exact territorial claim, but it does assert sovereignty over the Paracel and Spratly Islands. Moreover, China has published a map showing the entire South China Sea from Hainan Island up to Indonesia’s Natuna Island in an enclosed loop as territorial waters. In 1993, China’s foreign minister verbally reassured his Indonesian counterpart that the densely populated and economically important Natuna Island was not claimed by China, but Beijing has since failed to formally confirm that informal statement.

According to unclos and international custom, “territorial waters” extend twelve nautical miles from the low-water line along a country’s coast. When Beijing signed unclos, however, it included declarations that postulated definitions of territorial waters and rights of coastal states different from those written in unclos. Among other things, China declared that:

1. In accordance with the provisions of the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea, the People’s Republic of China shall enjoy sovereign rights and jurisdiction over an exclusive economic zone of 200 nautical miles and the continental shelf.

2. The People’s Republic of China will effect, through consultations, the delimitation of boundary of maritime jurisdiction with the states with coasts opposite or adjacent to China, respectively, on the basis of international law and in accordance with the equitable principle.

3. The People’s Republic of China reaffirms the sovereignty over all its archipelagoes and islands as listed in Article 2 of the Law of the People’s Republic of China on the Territorial Sea and Contiguous Zone, which was promulgated on February 25, 1992.

4. The People’s Republic of China reaffirms that the provisions of the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea concerning innocent passage through the territorial sea shall not prejudice the right of a coastal state to request, in accordance with its laws and regulations, a foreign state to obtain advance approval from or give prior notification to the coastal state for the passage of its warships through the territorial sea of the coastal state.

These declarations substantially change the meaning of unclos articles and are in marked contrast to traditional sea laws. China claims its eez is not just an economic boundary but sovereign territory, thus extending its maritime border 200 nautical miles. Beijing is also claiming that the uninhabited islands and reefs of the South China Sea are Chinese territory and, thus, also have eez extending an additional 200 nautical miles from each of them, and that its continental shelf extends as far as Beijing chooses to draw it. Finally, the declarations greatly broaden China’s prerogatives as a coastal state by insisting that warships making innocent passage must first obtain Chinese permission, again a violation of both unclos and the traditional laws of the sea.

Beijing is also claiming that the uninhabited islands and reefs of the South China Sea are Chinese territory and, thus, also have EEZ.

The position of the Chinese government has direct implications for regional economies, the freedom of navigation of global air and surface fleets, and America’s naval and air forces. If China were entitled to enforce its sovereignty over the South China Sea, then merchant ships traversing that Sea, no matter their flag, would be subject to China’s law and regulations and any fees, duties or other restrictions China may choose to impose. Additionally, China would have exclusive fishing and mineral rights over a Sea that the other littoral countries depend on for a significant portion of their natural resource income. Lastly, China’s insistence that any warship traversing the South China Sea must first gain permission nullifies the rights of foreign warships to conduct innocent passage. Furthermore, warships that do traverse territorial waters have severe restrictions applied to their operations.

These restrictions, if applied to the entire South China Sea, would severely restrict the operations of the United Sates Navy and hinder its ability to protect both American and international shipping. Furthermore, in light of China’s position, the dispute between China and the United States over the activities of the ep-3 reconnaissance airplane near Hainan Island in April 2001; the multiple harassing actions against the American ships USNS Impeccable and Victorious in the Spring of 2009; the collision between a Chinese submarine and the USNS John McCain’s sonar array in June 2009, and the recent show of force through naval exercises in the Yellow Sea are not isolated incidents, but rather the latest chapters of China’s campaign to assert its sovereignty over the South China Sea and could well be the first rounds in an escalating shoving match between China and the United States.

How strong is China’s claim? In the 9th century, an Arab trading dhow sank off Belitung Island, in what are now Indonesian waters, at the southern reaches of the South China Sea. The ship was laden with 60,000 artifacts of gold, silver, and exquisite porcelain apparently from China’s southern port metropolis of Guangzhou and bound for markets in Southeast Asia. The dhow was discovered in 1998 by Indonesian fishermen and is now considered one of the most important finds in maritime archeology.

The Belitung wreck was not a Chinese merchant vessel (Tang Dynasty China did not have a functioning seafaring culture), but it is emblematic of China’s new Sinocentric ideology of preeminence in East Asia. The Chinese government’s claim to the South China Sea is based in part on ancient relics, coins, pottery shards, and the like that litter South China Sea islets. The fact that these artifacts most likely were not left by Chinese sailors does not appear to influence Beijing’s outlandish claims.

China also justifies its claims to the South China Sea with various vague writings dating back more than 2,000 years.

Neither can Beijing demonstrate that Chinese ever permanently inhabited the Spratly or Paracel Islands, because they are uninhabitable. Many are wholly or intermittently submerged. The ones that are mostly dry lack sources of fresh water, and these low features are seasonally exposed to the monsoons. Today, the only human populations of these islands and reefs are military garrisons maintained at immense expense to their respective governments and at great personal risk to their members. They can by no means be said to have “an economic life of their own” and consequently are not able to generate their own eez under Article 121 of unclos.

China also cites various vague, questionable, and off-point historical writings dating back more than 2,000 years in its attempt to document its claimed sovereignty over the South China Sea.4 Without doubt, Chinese explorers and fisherman sailed the South China Sea for two thousand years, and some recorded their exploits, but it is equally clear that the Chinese traditionally have viewed Hainan Island as the southernmost outpost of their civilization, certainly until the end of the 19th century.5

Ancient Chinese records do not disprove the claims of Vietnam, the Philippines, Malaysia, Brunei, or Indonesia. There is substantial archeology showing that today’s Southeast Asians lived on those archipelagos long before written Chinese history. Several waves of settlers arrived in the Indonesian and Philippine archipelagos as far back as 250,000 years. These early peoples sailed or paddled the South China Sea to arrive where their descendents are living today. Although the Spratly and Paracel Islands were too small for permanent habitation, peoples of all the littoral countries fished and economically exploited them before China existed.

For countries that are littoral to the South China Sea, China’s claims are analogous to one of your neighbors claiming that the entire street in front of your home is his personal property. Furthermore, he claims that your sidewalk, driveway, and front yard clear up to the doorstep also belong to him. His armed guards park their cars in your driveway and he picks flowers out of your garden. If you or your neighbors protest he denies the validity of your title and refuses to settle in court. If someone insists on his property rights then the guards beat him.

Competing Visions

The international community, led by the United States, is already pursuing a vision of Southeast Asia’s future and the resolution of the South China Sea disputes that competes with China’s world view. The world’s vision of nation states is of the Westphalian model of independent countries with sovereign territories. The United Nations Charter and the un Convention on the Law of the Sea are manifestations of that model. China’s vision, on the other hand, is a Chinese world order, a new face to China’s ancient tributary system where China is the central power and Beijing is the global political pole.

The countries of Southeast Asia have already adopted the Westphalian model as their own and formed asean as an explicit defense of member countries’ sovereignty and independence. Nevertheless, the tributary system is a familiar part of Southeast Asia’s history and at the cost of independence it was tolerable, especially as an alternative to confrontation with Chinese military power.

The Chinese world order. The mechanics of the tributary system are often described as relatively benign. Countries paid a tribute, the kings or their ambassadors performed a kowtow ceremony to the Chinese emperor acknowledging his sovereignty, and in exchange they were given expensive gifts and granted lucrative trade concessions. According to the historians that espouse this view of the tributary system the Chinese emperors rarely intervened in the internal affairs of a country and were not territorially acquisitive.

The reality is that the Chinese emperors viewed their vassal kingdoms in the same terms as the European monarchs viewed their colonies: The emperor did not hesitate to use military force in order to protect his property. For example, in the 15th century, a tribute-paying king on the Indonesian island of Java killed some Chinese imperial envoys who had been sent to recognize the investiture of the self-proclaimed “king” of the Chinese colony at Palembang, a colony that had been subordinate to Java. In response the emperor sent a large naval fleet to deliver a note that said, “You should immediately send 60,000 ounces of gold to redeem your crime, so that you may preserve your land and people. Otherwise we cannot stop our armies from going to punish you.”6

When the Chinese Communist party usurped the emperor’s throne in 1947 it sought to regain control over all the empire’s former realms. The venerable China scholar John K. Fairbanks described China’s world view in concentric circles with a an inner “Sinic Zone” of nearby countries that were culturally similar, the “Inner Asia Zone” of tributary states on the fringe of Chinese territory, and the “Outer Zone” of barbarians. The Kingdom of Kashgar was once a tributary state in the Outer Zone, as opposed to Korea, which was in the inner Sinic Zone. Today the former Kingdom of Kashgar is part of the Chinese province renamed Xinjiang. Although the same colony twice declared independence as the East Turkistan Republic (in 1933 and 1944) the People’s Liberation Army “peacefully liberated” the independent state from itself in 1949.

The Chinese emperors viewed their vassal kingdoms the same as the European monarchs viewed their colonies.

The People’s Republic of China lacked the strength to extend its influence to all the empire’s former vassals. Korea escaped Kashgar’s fate because of the rise of the Japanese Empire. Korea became a battleground between the Chinese and Japanese Empires, and was won by the Japanese Emperor in 1895. Despite the painful memories of Japanese occupation, the silver lining for today’s Koreans is that Japanese colonization and the aftermath of World War II prevented China from annexing Korea as it did East Turkistan and Tibet.

The proposition that Korea could share the fate of other former Chinese vassal states is not mere speculation but the considered opinion of the Chinese Academy of Social Science. In 2002, the Chinese government launched a research effort called the Northeast Project. In 2004 project researchers from the Chinese Academy of Social Science declared that the ancient Korean Kingdom of Koguryo was not an independent kingdom, but a Chinese province. The same year, China’s Foreign Ministry removed all references to Koguryo as a period of Korean history from its website. The Chinese government hosted similar research efforts called the Northwest Project and Southwest Project for Xinjiang and Tibet respectively. It is perhaps only a matter of time before the Chinese Academy of Science launches fresh research projects on China’s former vassals in Southeast Asia.

Southeast Asia also owes its contemporary independence to foreign occupation. Between the 17th and 19th centuries, European powers extended their empires to many of China’s tributary states across southern Asia and Southeast Asia, including Vietnam and several kingdoms that ruled in regions of the modern-day Philippines and Indonesia. The Japanese and Europeans plucked these states from the weak Chinese emperor in what modern China derides as the “unequal treaties,” and they turned China’s colonies into European colonies. After the Japanese empire was destroyed in World War II and the European empires retreated from Asia, the most important legacy of their occupation was the residual concept of independent and sovereign states. China was too weak to reassert control over its former tributary states against European and American opposition, and new countries were built on the boundary templates of the former colonies freed, at least temporarily, from Chinese influence.

China disregards treaties and bases its current territorial claims on the pre-colonial tributary relationships.

In pursuit of Beijing’s ambitions, China disregards the “unequal treaties” negotiated with Japan and the European powers and bases its current territorial claims on the pre-colonial tributary relationships. For example, between 1992 and 2000 China and Vietnam negotiated their Gulf of Tonkin maritime boundaries. The basis for Vietnam’s claim in the Gulf was an 1887 treaty between France and China that established Vietnam’s modern borders. China, however, would not recognize the validity of the treaty or Vietnam’s historic claims.7  A treaty was eventually agreed to, but it was evidently so inequitable to Vietnam that Hanoi kept the terms secret for years. Eventually some of the terms leaked out, inflaming nationalist passions and threatening the stability of the Vietnamese government.

Since every country in Southeast Asia derives its present-day borders from colonial era treaties and agreements (including even Thailand, which was never a European colony, but did sign border treaties with European empires), Vietnam’s experience should serve as warning to any of the asean countries trying to bilaterally negotiate with China. Nevertheless, shortly after Vietnam concluded its border treaties President Gloria Macapagal Arroyo of the Philippines struck an agreement with China, in 2004, for oil exploration. Like Vietnam she also tried unsuccessfully to keep the terms secret. The formerly secret Annex “a” showed that the delineated boundaries included huge areas of the Philippines’ eez. Of the total of almost 150,000 square kilometers covered in the agreement, around 24,000 square kilometers included maritime territory previously claimed only by the Philippines. When the terms of the secret treaty were finally exposed, nationalist passions were once again inflamed. Amado Macasaet, publisher of the popular and respectable Philippine magazine Malaya, went so far as to say that President Arroyo should be charged with treason for signing the agreements he claimed were made in exchange for loans “attended by bribery and corruption.” Afterward even the overthrown former President Marcos was more popular than Arroyo.

For China’s former colonies, there is little reason to believe that appeasing China in the South China Sea will satisfy its appetite for territory or hegemony. In the Chinese world order China is not one country in a community but the oldest civilized country among upstarts. Any country’s sovereignty is ultimately owed to China and the degree of independence depends on its appreciation of Beijing’s “core interests.” In asserting its “indisputable sovereignty” over the South China Sea, Beijing is laying down its markers as if to say, “We can solve this problem the easy way, or the hard way, but it will be China’s way.”

Perceptions in Southeast Asia

Aggressive american diplomacy that seeks to pull together a “balancing alliance” against China can only confirm China’s suspicions of an American strategy to contain China while, at the same time, American actions are alienating Southeast Asian governments. asean capitals are more concerned about China than Washington, but they are also far more vulnerable to Beijing’s economic and military pressures and thus reluctant to provoke Chinese retribution. Ideally, asean would have the United States Navy steam in force into the South China Sea to maintain the peace, while asean then clucks disapprovingly from the sidelines and reassures the Chinese that it had nothing to do with it. Intellectually, of course, asean knows that it has to do better than that. Understanding the views of the asean countries is the first step in developing a balanced and appropriate policy.

Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, and Thailand formed asean in 1967 with the stated goal of fostering peace and stability, but the most important goal was to gain every member’s acceptance of the Westphalian-like principle of “mutual respect for the independence, sovereignty, equality, territorial integrity, and national identity of all nations.” During the Cold War, asean continued to evolve as a diplomatic tool to fence out superpower competition in the region. After the Cold War, asean recruited Brunei, Burma, Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam, and focused on economic development. In the 21st century, security issues are again taking precedence on the asean agenda. First it was international terrorism and maritime piracy that inspired inter-asean security cooperation, and now the rise of China increasingly tops the agenda of security discussion.

Citing the recent steep rise in military spending in Southeast Asia, some analysts speculate that these countries are already preparing for military competition with China. For example, the Stockholm International Peace Research Institute has reported that arms imports to Indonesia, Singapore, and Malaysia rose by 84 percent, 146 percent, and 722 percent, respectively, in the last five years. In the same timeframe Thailand’s defense budget has doubled. Some analysts argue that this huge increase in defense spending is an indicator of Southeast Asia’s concern over the Chinese threat. Unfortunately, like many government-led activities in Southeast Asia, there is much less substance than the raw data suggest.

In Malaysia, for example, the often-cited billion-dollar purchase of French submarines and many other expensive weapon systems perhaps has more to do with extravagant corruption than with strategic defense planning.8  In fact, the history of arms purchases in Malaysia appears burdened with corruption — a way of bejeweling its armed forces with expensive, low-density weapons that complicate logistics without adding combat value.

In the Philippines, vulnerable to the Chinese juggernaut, national security is sacrificed to domestic politics.

In Thailand, the current military buildup began only after the Royal Thai Army’s 2006 coup installed an Army-dependent government. Furthermore, although the generals espouse a pro-American defense policy to visiting U.S. officials, their equipment purchases are from an unusual mix of non-U.S. companies. From a logistics point of view a menagerie of military equipment is difficult and expensive to maintain; on the other hand, using smaller, non-U.S. arms suppliers may give Thai officers easier access to kickbacks.

In the Philippines, the Southeast Asian country that is second only to Vietnam in its vulnerability to the Chinese juggernaut, national security is sacrificed to domestic politics. Since September 11, the United States has engaged in a sustained effort to improve the capabilities of the Philippine Armed Forces. Total U.S. assistance tripled from roughly $38 million in 2001 to almost $120 million in 2010. Additionally, not counted in those assistance dollars are the millions spent on an ongoing series of robust U.S.-Philippine military exercises designed to improve the capabilities of the Philippine Armed Forces. Unfortunately, despite the sincere efforts of the U.S. Pacific Command, there have been only marginal improvements in the paf.

This lack of improvement relates to the declining Philippine defense budget. As U.S. assistance grew, the Philippine Congress cut the defense budget. Besides the China threat the Philippines is also beleaguered by multiple internal insurgencies, yet most of the paf’s equipment is Vietnam War vintage and the defense budget is now only about one percent of gdp, or about $1.16 billion in 2009. Despite, or perhaps because of America’s unstinting assistance, many Philippine politicians, including the newly elected President Benigno Aquino III, feel that they are entitled to more. Ignoring their own complicity in underfunding Philippine security forces, these politicians are calling for a review of the Visiting Forces Agreement (the agreement that permits the American military presence to help train the paf). Their objection is that the U.S. is not doing enough to modernize the Philippine Armed Forces, and they imagine the Visiting Forces Agreement as a tool to leverage ever greater American military subsidies.

Fortunately, the security picture in Southeast Asia is not all venality and indolence. Both Vietnam and Indonesia are making significant arms purchases focused on strengthening their national security. Additionally, after decades of wise investment, Singapore’s armed forces are world-class and by far the most powerful in asean.

ASEAN’s total air and naval forces are imposing, but they are not enough to defeat the powerful Chinese Army.

On paper, asean’s total air and naval forces are imposing. asean boasts a fleet of 680 fixed-wing combat aircraft, 412 surface combat vessels, and eight submarines in the combined navies.9 These numbers are not enough to defeat the powerful People’s Liberation Army, with its 2,300 combat aircraft, 65 submarines, and 256 surface combat vessels, but they are sufficient to act as a deterrent were there any sense of common defense. Unfortunately, asean is not nato: No country in Southeast Asia is treaty-bound to assist another in case of an attack, and there are few solely indigenous efforts to coordinate military activities.

Indonesia is the largest country in Southeast Asia, making up 40 percent of the region’s population; it has the largest economy and is a developing democracy. Indonesia’s views on China’s activities reflect Jakarta’s vision of itself as an informal leader of asean. Speaking at the Center for Strategic and International Studies in Washington, D.C., Indonesia’s Foreign Minister Marty Natalegawa said, “For members of asean, what is more worrying is the possibility that the South China Sea could be a central theater for possible rivalry.” Indonesia’s goal, and by extension asean’s as well, is to balance the United States against the Chinese in order to protect their territorial integrity and independence.

The government of Vietnam perceives China as nothing less than an existential threat; an anxiety validated by historical experience. Vietnam’s recorded history dates back 2,700 years. China occupied the country for more than a thousand of those years and Hanoi was subject to a burdensome tributary status for most of the rest of its history. Despite many long and difficult wars with China, Hanoi enjoyed genuine independence for only brief periods.

Hanoi’s experience with post-empire China is the latter’s enduring disregard of Vietnam’s sovereignty and independence. In 1979, in order to chastise Hanoi for policies Beijing did not like, China attacked Vietnam and briefly occupied parts of the country. Additionally, China’s pla Navy has on multiple occasions attacked and sunk Vietnamese naval vessels operating just off southern Vietnam and hundreds of miles from China’s coast; Chinese soldiers garrison tiny islands and atolls inside Vietnam’s eez; pla Navy vessels frequently harass or arrest Vietnamese fishermen; and Beijing interferes with Hanoi’s efforts to exploit natural gas resources well inside Vietnam’s eez. Nevertheless, Hanoi is careful not to provoke China and continues to seek good relations with Beijing.

Hanoi’s experience with post-empire China is the latter’s enduring disregard of Vietnam’s independence.

Although Singapore is not party to the South China Sea maritime territorial dispute, and 75 percent of its population is of Chinese descent, Singapore’s views on rising China prove the rule that asean is suspicious of China’s intentions. Singapore is an ethnically diverse country, but the bulk of its population is descended from Chinese immigrants, mostly laborers brought in during British rule. Because of its immigrant population and economic success some countries in the region resent Singapore and often voice suspicions of its loyalties. Although Singapore has for decades built strong economic links with China, it waited until 1990 to open formal relations with the People’s Republic — the last country in asean to do so. Singapore continues that strong economic link, but China’s recent belligerence has forced Singapore to declare its side.

In order to assure its neighbors (and notify China) that Singapore is not a Chinese province, Singapore’s Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong, at the August 2010 National Day celebration, made a point of describing Singapore’s unique cultural identity, including the adoption of English as the national language and the distinctive Singaporean cuisine. To emphasize that message, in a September 6, 2010, editorial the Straits Times, Singapore’s national newspaper and government mouthpiece, emphasized that the people of Singapore were not overseas Chinese, saying, “the term ‘Overseas Chinese’ should rankle Singaporeans of all races because it implies that the Chinese in Singapore are somehow ‘overseas,’ separated from the ‘mainland.’ It also implies a desire to perhaps ‘return’ some day. In fact, most Singaporeans here are not ‘overseas.’ They are rooted here.” In another editorial last summer the Straits Times guardedly approved Washington’s new approach to the South China Sea and warned Beijing that its “actions will be closely watched for what it says about the growing power’s ‘peaceful rise.’”

Singapore’s biggest concern about the new U.S. policy is not fear of provoking China but the fickleness of American foreign policy, a point of view that reflects the broader asean position. From asean’s point of view, despite decades of strident Chinese declarations and demonstrative military actions, the U.S. has been “standoffish” about the dispute; seemingly unaware or unconcerned of Beijing’s acquisitiveness in the South China Sea and the implications for the region and the globe. For example, when the Philippines, an American treaty ally, discovered a Chinese naval installation on Mischief Reef, Washington did not share Manila’s outrage and took no position on the dispute, even as the Chinese continued to expand and enlarge their presence.

But ASEAN countries are ambivalent about both America and China. They ask for consistent American support and presence to balance China. At the same time, many asean countries are reluctant to grant the U.S. too much access for fear of compromising their sovereignty. asean countries fear China’s military power and political intentions, but they welcome Chinese investment and trading opportunities in the vast Chinese market.

Finally, ASEAN countries are far from unified in their view of China as a threat. Four of asean’s ten countries, Burma, Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand, are not party to the South China Sea territorial dispute. Burma’s junta, an international pariah regime, ranks the People’s Republic of China among the few governments friendly to it and would be reluctant to defend its asean partners against its patron’s encroachment. Thailand is in the midst of deep political schism and unlikely to participate in a common defense. Furthermore, Thailand’s elite are proud of Thailand’s flexible “bamboo” foreign policy and see no reason not to bend with the wind from China. The royal families in both Thailand and Cambodia are on friendly terms with the Chinese government. Lastly, asean’s consensus decision process means that Beijing needs only one dissenting vote to avoid asean censure.

Moving Forward

The countries of Southeast Asia use Asean to create a diplomatic fence around the region. As recent events have shown, however, a rising China is pushing against that boundary and asean is now wishing for increased United States presence to balance the Chinese encroachment. The harsh reality is that even ironclad security treaties and the presence of American warships are not enough to protect Southeast Asian countries if they are not willing to defend themselves. The asean countries must act individually and collectively to create a substantive deterrent to Chinese encroachment. To quote the poet Robert Frost, “Good fences make good neighbors,” and asean lacks the institutional strength, cohesion, and unity of purpose to build  a good fence.

China poses a substantial and present military threat, but starting U.S. assistance with a buildup of asean militaries is analogous to building a house by starting with the roof. The first priority must be for the individual countries to build a foundation for that house by cleaning up their legal systems and reducing corruption. With the exception of Singapore, every country in asean is afflicted with deeply corrupt legal systems. Judicial corruption is extremely unpopular, known in Indonesia as the “judicial mafia,” and U.S. assistance in fighting it would be welcome. The U.S. has a number of programs, particularly in the Departments of Justice and Homeland Security, that can assist indigenous judicial-reform efforts and should be the first priority for assistance to the region.

Substantial improvement in ASEAN’s legal systems and growth in its economies must come before increased military strength.

The second priority for building asean’s house is the economic walls and posts that will hold up the roof. asean has made progress in loosening inter-asean trade restrictions, but it must continue to expand those efforts, and the countries must reform their internal economies to permit economic growth. Again, the U.S. has many departments and agencies that can and should aid economic development in Southeast Asia. In particular, the U.S. Trade Representative could negotiate an enhanced trade agreement between the U.S. andasean, perhaps modeled on the U.S.-Vietnam trade agreement that did so much to assist Vietnam’s economic reforms.

In Southeast Asia the U.S. can for a time provide a security shield for the asean countries, but that commitment must not become a bottomless obligation. Security subsidies, like welfare, trade, or industrial subsidies, can become expensive entitlements and eventually prompt behavior that runs counter to the original intent of the subsidy.

If there is substantial improvement in the legal systems and growth in the economies, then increased military strength will follow naturally. Relieved of the burden of purchasing weapons systems whose only practical use is enriching politicians or generals will significantly increase military capability without costing an additional penny. Furthermore, with larger and more robust national economies, the regional militaries will gain more resources for modernization without increasing their burden on taxpayers. The Pentagon already has robust military assistance programs in the region, and improved national militaries will be more able to take advantage of American assistance.

Diplomatically, asean should begin inter-asean negotiations on internal borders. Beginning the process may force China to ask to participate in the multilateral process, allowing asean to set the terms of the negotiations. Even if Beijing will not participate, an asean border agreement would complicate China’s diplomacy and spoil its bilateral intimidation.

Militarily, asean should begin the process of improving its ability to conduct collective military defense. Building on the small steps already begun — fighting transnational terrorism, suppressing maritime piracy, and providing disaster relief — the asean militaries should begin to look for opportunities to improve their ability to perform coalition operations. asean’s stated diplomatic and political goals are to protect the sovereignty and territorial integrity of the member nations. Building a collective military deterrent to defend those goals against all possible adversaries is not an anti-China activity.

Lastly, it is not the purpose of this article to argue that Beijing will necessarily enforce its ancient prerogatives, but rather that the Sinocentric ideology is the historical base from which Chinese leaders will view the world. Beijing must be convinced to become a devoted adherent to the Westphalian model. Former Deputy Secretary of State Robert Zoellick often opined that China needed to be more of a “stakeholder” in the international system and that that goal needs to remain a long-term U.S. policy objective. During the latter half of the 20th century, China greatly benefited from the inherent protections of the Westphalian model of a nation-state and the broader international system. Now that China is big enough to influence the world order, it must not be permitted to establish a tiered structure with China demanding greater rights than other countries.

Washington policymakers must remember that China is not currently a threat to any country. Although there is considerable potential for a U.S.-China clash, good diplomacy in Washington and growing political maturity in Beijing may obviate any such confrontation. The best way to achieve this goal is to embed China in rules-based organizations and then insist that Beijing abide by those rules. The most important global maritime treaty is unclos, but the United States has not yet ratified the treaty and thus has less power to influence the treaty implementation than does China. The only way for the U.S. to get a seat at the unclos table is to ratify unclos and participate in the various commissions guiding its implementation.

American interests in maintaining the freedom of navigation in the South China Sea and other contested waters should be defended with diplomacy backed by military strength. The U.S. must not flinch or compromise, because any temporary concession to China’s demonstrably unreasonable demands will not earn gratitude, but instead will become a precedent for China’s future demands. Diplomatically and militarily, Washington must continue to deploy sufficient force to deter China’s unjustifiable territorial ambitions.

(By Dana Dillon - June 1, 2011)


Dana R. Dillon is the author of The China Challenge (2007) and a frequent commentator on Asian and national security issues.

1 John Pomfret, “U.S. takes a tougher tone with China,”Washington Post (July 30, 2010).

2 Edward Wong, “China Hedges Over Whether South China Sea is a ‘Core Interest’ Worth War,” New York Times (March 30, 2011).

3 Max Herriman, “China’s Territorial Sea Law and International Law of the Sea,” Maritime Studies 15 (1997). See also the discussion of China’s claim by Xavier Furtado in “International Law and the Dispute over the Spratly Islands: Whither unclos?” Contemporary Southeast Asia 21:3 (December 1, 1999).

4 Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the People’s Republic of China, “Jurisprudential Evidence to Support China’s Sovereignty over the Nansha Islands” (2000).

5 See the introduction to Edward H. Schafer, Shore of Pearls (University of California Press, 1970).

6 Giovanni Andornino, “The Nature and Linkages of China’s Tributary System under the Ming and Qing Dynasties,” Global Economic History Network working paper 21 (2006).

7 Zou Keyuan, “The Sino-Vietnamese Agreement on Maritime Boundary Delimitation in the Gulf of Tonkin,” Ocean Development & International Law 36 (2005).

8 Asian Sentinel has published an excellent series of articles exposing the submarine scandal in Malaysia, but John Berthelsen’s individual piece provides a good synopsis: John Berthelsen, “Malaysia’s Submarine Scandal Surfaces in France,” Asian Sentinel (April 16, 2010).

9 These numbers are based primarily on material published by the Center for Strategic and International Studies in “The Military Balance in Asia: 1990–2010.”

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Source: http://www.hoover.org/publications/policy-review/article/79931


Friday, May 13, 2011

MBA Journal: Doing Business in Vietnam

"Part of the reason I chose Vietnam for global residency was I wanted a culture completely alien to my own experiences."


My first impression on landing in Vietnam was, "Oh wow, Ho Chi Minh City looks exactly like Sarajevo." It is a testament to the proliferation of 1970s Soviet architecture that I could fly halfway around the world and feel as if I had arrived back in my own home country of Bosnia, another beneficiary of Soviet-style economic planning. I was visiting Vietnam (and subsequently Cambodia) on a Global Residency trip with my MBA program at Georgetown University's McDonough School of Business (McDonough Full-Time MBA Profile). Although I'd still need to take classes on our return to campus, this trip would be a culmination of my learning in global business, concluding in a consulting presentation to a Vietnamese client for whom my team and I created a global branding strategy and regional entry plan.

Part of the reason I chose Vietnam for global residency was I wanted a culture completely alien to my own experiences. Although I had to adjust to a brand-new world when I first moved to the U.S. at 17 after leaving Bosnia, I still saw Europe and North America as essentially sharing the same worldview. It was, therefore, incredibly surprising to see so many similarities—the architecture, bargaining at the city market, the narrow roads resulting in major traffic jams—between Vietnam and Bosnia.

Then things got more interesting. "I got the best recommendation for a tailor," my friend Erica said over a couple of Vietnam's finest $1 beers. "This crazy ex-pat war vet saved us when our Mekong cruise boat dropped us off in the middle of nowhere after we refused to pay them an extra $200. Well, he says you need to go to this lady in the stall in the city market and buy your fabrics. She then gives you the name and address of the best tailor in town. If you tell him that Erica sent you, he'll give you a really good price. I already bought four dresses from him, and he loves me."

From Extortion to Astrology

Erica's story encapsulates business in Vietnam in so many ways. Although the economic engine is moving the country toward more Western standards at supersonic speeds, there are still many vestiges of lawlessness, such as the boat extortion described above. Most deals are conducted on the basis of relationships; if the two parties don't already know each other, introductions are needed through social situations before sitting down for business matters. Even self-proclaimed nonreligious individuals will often consult astrologers to find out whether a deal is made in auspicious circumstances. Finally, just about everything is open to negotiation. While I always considered my mother to be the family's true expert on price negotiations in the market (she has the patience to look through all the options and a willingness to walk away, both of which I lack), by the end of my trip I was slashing prices on silk scarves and souvenirs down to only one-third of the originally stated price.

The Global Residency brought theory to life. It is one thing to read how a country can manage its currency reserves to set monetary policy and quite another to observe the Vietnamese government's efforts to promote a strong dong clash with the general dollarization of the economy, or to contrast this situation with Cambodia, where ATMs dispense dollars and the local currency is used only as change. Although Georgetown's education pays a lot of attention to public policy, it was still impressive to hear from our panelists about the Vietnamese parliament's preoccupation with some areas of regulation and complete disregard for others. While the Chinese government can relocate a neighborhood to create a highway, Vietnamese culture's respect for land ownership deprived the government of eminent domain rights, resulting in overcrowded roads where speed limits rarely exceed 30 miles per hour.

While my global marketing professors lectured about adapting the product to regional needs, it's nonetheless nothing short of funny hearing that KFC is considered a premium product because the American prices are so much higher than Vietnamese price points.

Of course, the real impact of the visit was in our consulting project. Global Residency is a requirement for graduation. After we selected a country, the faculty and administration looked for consulting projects with companies that needed external help. Some were multinational, such as Pepsi and Citibank, while others were companies looking to expand abroad, and some were just increasing their in-country footprint. After each team was assigned a project, we continued to refine our understanding of the client's problems within the industry and regional context while preparing the presentation we would deliver to the company's chief executive or country manager while on residency.

Image of a "Hip Traveler"

During the global residency, my team worked with Vietnam Fashion Corporation (think Vietnam's GAP). Already the best-known clothing retailer in Vietnam, VFC has expanded into some parts of Asia and Africa and has set its sights on becoming a global brand. Our team's research into global branding strategies in the digital age unearthed new theories of the "consumer decision journey," where brands must interact with consumers to capture their loyalty. We developed a concept of a "hip traveler" that VFC could use to create its global myth, a hallmark of international brands that help create a global identity. We cautioned the client not simply to replicate its existing business plan, but to tailor the strategy to regional needs and market saturation. Finally, we conducted primary market research through focus groups, concept surveys, and deep interviews to understand North American consumers' willingness to buy VFC's product, given the highly competitive market.

The team was excited that the presentation was received well by the client. Our primary contact, the chief marketer, would occasionally get up in the middle of the presentation and translate our slides, to make sure her marketing and design team understood all the implications of our recommendations. Through our dialogue, we tried to show that the frameworks we developed could help them rethink their strategies in a new light.

The final seal of approval came when the client team invited us to an eight-course meal in a private dining room of a fancy restaurant and then invited us to go clubbing the following night. That's the fun part of doing business in Vietnam.

Rusmir Musić is enrolled at the McDonough School of Business at Georgetown University and is expected to graduate in 2011. A war refugee, Musić and his family fled their home in Bosnia and Herzegovina in 1992. Coming to the U.S. on his own at 17, he earned a bachelor of arts in chemistry in 2001 from the College of Holy Cross and a master of arts in humanities and social thought in 2003 from New York University's Graduate School of Arts & Sciences. Before enrolling in business school, he was the assistant director of experiential programs at the Hiatt Career Center at Brandeis University. 

By Rusmir Musić (May 9, 2011)

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Comment from Dr.Jack (May 9, 2011)

Appreciate your description of your own experience in Vietnam, a rather despotic developing nation. However, that first short impression won't last long if later you come and work there. I've been working there for over 5 years. You'd see countless nuisances ahead, featuring corruption and bribery. Vietnam can be equated to a place where patience and resentment can be practised regularly. You will surely find it much more difficult to do business in Vietnam. Trust me. 

Source: http://www.businessweek.com/bschools/content/may2011/bs2011055_554471.htm

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Website of the Imperial NGUYEN Dynasty

http://www.imperialvietnam.net/index.html

Thanh Duc Church - Danang

THANH DUC CHURCH

On the wide and beautiful two-way street, the tall bell towers of Thanh Duc church stands majestically in the scenery of Son Tra peninsula.

Like a mark in the beautiful landscape of the whole street, the new church built in 2000 is a living testament of a stable and strong congregation that is a vital part of the community.

50 years ago, this was a strip of sand deposited by Han river on which the highest ground was chosen to build the current church.

At first, a big shelter was the home of many Catholic families; a few houses made of steel-sheets were the hospital and church office. Many adjoining blocks of houses were of parishioners living around the church. The first church was also made of steel-sheets, surrounded by cement sheets and wooden beams bought from Hai Van pass.

Through many momentous events, especially the incident of Thanh Bo – Duc Loi in 1964, the church was repaired, expanded, renovated and remains a small steel-sheet building with narrow doors and windows; walls were covered in harsh-looking mortar bricks and particularly the bell tower was built out of four railway tracks like a monument of a war-time period.

From 1968 to 1974, the idea of a new church made everyone feel excited. Plans, designs… even contribution were made. But all were shelved. Maybe because the country was still at war and it was difficult to predict how people would adjust to a new and uncertain life.

After 1975, the Parish entered a new period. Some parishioners left while some remained loyal to the land. So the number of parishioners was reduced (in 1964: 2030 people; 1975: 1729). The number of parishioners decreased. Life was difficult with severe food shortages. However, a new talented and devoted shepherd was sent to the Parish. He was Reverend Nguyen Huu Dang. He repaired the most badly damaged areas of the church depending on available funds. First, he raised and installed steel beams supporting the roof. Then he tiled the roof, built the porch and the bell tower, re-installed electricity, sound, light and fan systems etc… This was the second church of the Parish.

In 1995, the country was in a reformation process. The number of parishioners increased to 3100 parishioners and the issue of rebuilding the church was again brought up. With the help from overseas Thanh Duc parishioners, a long-term fund-raising campaign was started. Each person would contribute 200 dong per day for 3 years.

Technical survey, design and blueprint were also started. Due to the scope of the project, the topic of holy art was also considered: how to create a church worthy of the contribution and wish of local and overseas parishioners and also at the same time create the first church of the new 21st century. The church had to be tall but comfortable, capable of turning people’s mind to God. The altar in particular had to match with theological meaning and holy art, prominent but not different, elegant but not too sophisticated, formal but should not prevent parishioners from intimately and earnestly taking part in worship.  This was a big challenge and the Management Board created a competition to design the altar. In addition, there was the need to combine the historic requirements of the church and yet keep it in balance with the bell tower, the great work of the previous parish priest, plus the limit of the fixed terrain conditions.

The huge scope of the project made selecting the contractor difficult. Who and how to choose was debated at great length and a process in compliance with common construction practice was reached: public bidding to all who were qualified and experienced.

There were unforgettable moments when young men in the Parish demolished concrete stabs under the summer sun. Older men straightened old steel rebars for reuse. Many moved hundreds of cubic meters of debris out of the construction site. Everyone was delighted, especially at the drawing of the new church. “All for the new church” was the slogan at the time.

The Management Board consisted of the chief parishioner representative as the chairman, a technical deputy, a supervisor, a secretary cum accountant, a warehouse keeper and 2 persons assigned to material purchasing, the parish priest in charge of the funds. Besides, there were members of the Parish Council to take care of meals and night watches and the women to bring daily drinks for workers.

The construction site was cleared on time for the contractor who won the bidding. On 16 May 1999, the local bishop laid the first stone and on 17 May 1999 construction started.

There were many wonderful ideas, divergent opinions and egos: some had technical knowledge, some did not but were willing to help, some were keen on criticizing etc…

To make people work together and turn those elements into energy was the motto of the Management Board. There was a book for opinions, a mailbox and even a telephone at the office for everyone.

The project was huge but no casualties occurred: purchases were signed by the warehouse keeper, loads of sands and rocks were confirmed, and expenses were recorded and approved by the chairman. Labor safety was also checked regularly.

Underground work such as digging, columnar and rock foundation was supervised and recorded by the accountant for later payment.

There was special focus on technical work, besides the technical supervisor, the technical deputy was present at the site to check and report on the quantity of mortar and concrete for each unit of work. He was also in charge of labor safety compliance and resolving problems so that the project went as scheduled at the minimum expense.

Other purchases and services such as sound equipment, electricity and water were all contracted and approved by the chief. Documents were kept for later payments.

The Management Board met monthly to review, plan for next tasks and reported to members and the parish priest. Thanks to experience and best practices, the actual cost of the project was much lower than the allowed budget.

People and other dignitaries who visited Thanh Duc Parish such as Cardinal Pham Dinh Tung, Bishop Nguyen Van Yen, Monsignor Nguyen Van Phuong, Mr. Pham The Duyet (Chairman of the National Front Committee), Mr. Nguyen Ba Thanh (City Party Secretary) and Mr. Nguyen Van An (Chairman of the City People’s Committee)… all praised Thanh Duc church construction project. It was the efforts of many local and overseas parishioners who silently contributed to the church over the years…

The Thanh Duc church on the side of the 3rd of February street is a reminder of many hardships, difficulties and obstacles that those who were in charge had to overcome with their highest resolution: the church is my own home. No one can count the sleepless nights that the parish priest had to endure and the drops of sweat that workers shed at the site.

 



SOME PHOTOS…

 

 

Bishop F.X. Nguyen Quang Sach laid the first stone to start the construction of the new church (16 May 1999)

 

The start of the construction of the new church (17 May 1999)

 

 

Ground-breaking ceremony (17 May 1999)

 

 

The roof top of the church under construction

 

 

The inauguration of the church (29 June 2000)

 

 

The Mass in the church on the inauguration day (29 June 2000)

 

Performances to celebrate the inauguration of Thanh Duc church (29 June 2000)

 

 

Cardinal Paul Joseph PHAM DINH TUNG – President of Vietnam Conference of Bishops visited Thanh Duc church (30 June 2000)

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THE JOURNEY OF 50 YEARS (05/28/2010)


THANH DUC PARISH - DA NANG DIOCESE

History can teach us many lessons. There are lessons we must learn to live with gratitude and dignity so that our ancestors can be proud of us. However, history also has painful lessons that we must learn to avoid repeating the tragic mistakes. Nonetheless, those are valuable lessons that future generations must respect and remember.

 

Our parish history is just a little piece in the history of the universal Church or the Church in Vietnam. But it does contain many countless examples of the unselfish sacrifice that our priests, monks, nuns and the whole congregation have made. From those we can teach ourselves to be grateful to the Lord, Mary and our predecessors; to cherish the spiritual and material legacies left to us such as solidarity and sacrifice for the common good. It is also our responsibility to maintain our facilities and contribute in one way or another to the growth of our Parish. If we let our Parish fail, we neglect our obligation to our children.

MARKS IN TIME

 

1966

 

1991

 

2004

 

The Holy See delegation led by Monsignor C. Migliore, Secretary for Relations with States and Monsignor B. Phuong visited and celebrated Mass in the new Thanh Duc church (13 October 2002)

 

Co-celebrated Mass and the congregation…


Easter in 2000

*Source: http://www.thanhduchaingoai.com/D_1-5_2-209_4-315_5-4_6-1_17-1_14-2/

Friday, March 25, 2011

Phong Canh Phú Yên

Tuy Hòa của tôi

Tôi lớn lên ở TP Tuy Hòa – đô thị nằm bên bờ biển Đông, quanh năm lộng gió và ầm ào sóng vỗ. Tuổi thơ tôi gắn liền với những con đường, góc phố Tuy Hòa để rồi những nơi này đã trở thành hoài niệm mỗi khi chia xa.

 

TP110315.jpg

Một góc TP Tuy Hòa - Ảnh: H.TRUNG

 

Tuy Hòa của tôi sau ngày miền Nam hoàn toàn giải phóng là một đô thị nhỏ và nghèo. Ngày ấy Tuy Hòa chỉ có một vài con đường như Trần Hưng Đạo, Lê Lợi, Lê Thánh Tôn… trong đó đường Trần Hưng Đạo là trục chính. Dù là thị xã nhưng khu vực nội ô Tuy Hòa ngày ấy vẫn có rất nhiều đồng ruộng và khoảng đất trống. Những nơi này đã để lại trong tôi và bạn bè trang lứa biết bao kỷ niệm tuổi thơ. Còn nhớ những chiều hè lộng gió, lũ trẻ chúng tôi đầu trần chân đất tung tăng thả diều trên bãi trống trước thư viện Hải Phú; những cánh diều được làm từ giấy vở học trò chứ không được đẹp và đủ màu sắc như diều của trẻ con bây giờ. Dây thả diều là những đoạn cước chắp nối nên những buổi gió mạnh, nhiều cánh diều bị đứt dây bay mất, mang theo bao tiếc nuối của chúng tôi. Rồi những buổi trưa hè, cả bọn rủ nhau ra rạch Bầu Hạ và các ao nước giữa đồng câu cá, ngụp lặn mặc cho không ít lần bị ăn đòn. Những đêm trăng ruộng vừa mới gặt, hương lúa vẫn còn thoang thoảng, tiếng dế gáy giục giã lũ trẻ chúng tôi rồng rắn ra đồng tìm bắt dế… Tất cả những kỷ niệm ấy đã theo tôi suốt cả một quãng đời.

 

Thời gian trôi đi, Tuy Hòa cũng dần chuyển mình để trở thành trung tâm chính trị, văn hóa, xã hội của tỉnh. Sau ngày Phú Yên được tái lập, thị xã Tuy Hòa (bây giờ là TP Tuy Hòa) đã được mở rộng thêm về phía biển, một khu dân cư mới nay là phường 7 được hình thành. Mặc dù vậy Tuy Hòa của tôi vẫn chưa có được dáng vẻ hiện đại của một đô thị lớn. Phường 7 ngày ấy như vùng sâu, vùng xa, chỉ có những gia đình cán bộ công chức không có nhà “trên phố” bám trụ. Những con đường ở đây đều là đường đất, mỗi khi đêm xuống rất vắng người đi lại, còn mỗi lần gió thổi, cát lại bay rào rào vào nhà dân. Những năm từ 1990 đến 1996, dù đã là một cán bộ trong biên chế của Báo Phú Yên nhưng tôi chẳng bao giờ nghĩ đến việc sẽ tìm cho mình một lô đất ở phường 7 để ở. Vậy mà chỉ trong một thời gian ngắn, phường 7 đã trở thành nơi sầm uất, phát triển khá nhanh. Sự chuyển mình của địa phương này đánh dấu sự phát triển vượt bậc của đô thị Tuy Hòa trong những năm gần đây. Tất cả những con đường ở phường 7 giờ đã được “nhựa hóa”, rộng rãi, thoáng đãng, sáng rực ánh đèn vào ban đêm. Quảng trường 1 Tháng 4 trước đây là bãi đất trống đã trở thành nơi tổ chức những lễ lớn của tỉnh, trở thành điểm đến của du khách mỗi khi đến Tuy Hòa và là nơi tụ tập vui chơi, thư giãn, thể dục của người dân Tuy Hòa. Không chỉ có khu dân cư mới phường 7, mà cả những phố cũ cũng được chỉnh trang và phát triển, tạo nên diện mạo mới cho đô thị nằm bên bờ sông Đà Rằng trĩu nặng phù sa. Núi Nhạn rêu phong cổ kính, uy nghi và trầm mặc được tôn tạo giờ đã đẹp hơn. Nhiều con đường mới như Hùng Vương, Bạch Đằng, Trần Phú… được mở giúp cho mạng lưới giao thông đối nội của TP Tuy Hòa hoàn thiện hơn. Đôi bờ hạ lưu sông Đà Rằng giờ đã có thêm cầu Hùng Vương nối nhịp bờ vui… Tất cả, tất cả đã tạo cho Tuy Hòa của tôi, của biết bao người sinh ra và lớn lên trên mảnh đất này niềm tự hào không gì có thể tả được.

 

Những người bạn của tôi dù ở nước ngoài hay định cư ở các thành phố lớn đều không khỏi ngạc nhiên mỗi khi trở lại Tuy Hòa sau một thời gian xa cách. Không ai có thể nghĩ rằng Tuy Hòa nghèo nàn, lạc hậu trước đây giờ đã có những tòa nhà cao từ 5 đến 7 tầng, những khách sạn cao đến 15-16 tầng đạt tiêu chuẩn 4-5 sao như CenDeluxe, Kaya. Còn với du khách, ấn tượng hơn cả vẫn là những con đường rộng rãi, thoáng đãng, đặc biệt là đường Bạch Đằng chạy ven sông Đà Rằng, kết hợp cảnh quan núi Nhạn thật thơ mộng và lãng mạn.

 

Không chỉ có vậy, Tuy Hòa của tôi hiện đạt tốc độ phát triển kinh tế rất khả quan. Người dân nơi này đang ngày càng giàu lên mà bằng chứng là những ngôi nhà cao tầng, kiến trúc đẹp, hiện đại đua nhau mọc lên trên các trục đường chính; ô tô từ 4 đến 7 chỗ dùng cho gia đình với đủ loại trong đó không hiếm những xe hạng sang như Audi, Lexus,... đã ngày càng nhiều thêm. Đời sống vật chất, tinh thần của người dân cũng được nâng lên đáng kể. TP Tuy Hòa đã có các siêu thị lúc nào cũng đông khách, các dãy phố với nhiều cửa hàng, cửa hiệu tấp nập người mua bán...

 

Tôi giờ đã là một người trung niên, có dịp đi nhiều thành phố lớn trong nước nhưng vẫn yêu Tuy Hòa. Yêu bởi Tuy Hòa là tuổi thơ, là những hoài niệm về quá khứ. Yêu bởi nơi đây đang lớn lên từng ngày, Tuy Hòa đang có được một sức bật mới để bứt phá mạnh mẽ hơn trong những năm tới. Vào những chiều cuối cùng của năm âm lịch, tôi thường có thói quen một mình tản bộ lên núi Nhạn, phóng tầm mắt nhìn về bốn phía TP Tuy Hòa. Lần nào cũng vậy, một cảm giác lâng lâng khó tả cứ dâng lên trong tôi khi chứng kiến đường phố rực rỡ sắc hoa, nhộn nhịp người xe hối hả. Từ trên đỉnh cao của núi Nhạn, tôi tưởng tượng về một Tuy Hòa của tương lai. Mai này Tuy Hòa của tôi sẽ tiếp tục được mở rộng ở phía bờ nam sông Đà Rằng với những khu dân cư sầm uất, những tòa nhà cao chọc trời như ở các thành phố lớn mà tôi có dịp đặt chân đến. Mai này Tuy Hòa sẽ có cả những cây cầu vượt để giải quyết tình trạng kẹt xe khi mà ô tô đã trở thành loại phương tiện đi lại chính của mỗi gia đình như môtô, xe máy bây giờ. Và tôi kỳ vọng dù phát triển như thế nào, Tuy Hòa của tôi vẫn là đô thị xanh, sạch, đẹp; ý thức người dân trong việc thực hiện nếp sống văn minh đô thị, bảo vệ môi trường, chung tay phát triển thành phố hiện đại hơn sẽ được duy trì và nâng lên.


HOÀI TRUNG

http://www.baophuyen.com.vn/Trangch%E1%BB%A7/Ph%C3%BAY%C3%AAn%C4%90%E1%BA%A5tNg%C6%B0%E1%BB%9Di/tabid/94/GId/94/itemIndex/5/NId/61623/Default.aspx

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Hơn 30 năm sống xa “xứ nẫu”, tôi nhớ da diết nơi chôn nhau cắt rốn, nhớ người thân, nhớ quê hương, nhớ tiếng “nẫu” thân thương! 

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Tuy Hòa dưới cánh máy bay. - Ảnh: K.DUY

 

Tôi mua một số tờ báo và may mắn đọc được mẩu tin “Đã chọn được biểu trưng tỉnh Phú Yên” nhằm kỷ niệm 400 tỉnh Phú Yên (1/4/2011) và Năm Du lịch quốc gia Duyên hải Nam Trung Bộ - Phú Yên 2011. Nhìn biểu trưng Phú Yên để chuẩn bị cho đại lễ 400 năm với đặc điểm thắng cảnh là núi Đá Bia, sông Ba và đồng lúa Tuy Hòa, lòng tôi trỗi dậy niềm tự hào về bề dày lịch sử hình thành và phát triển Phú Yên; càng chộn rộn, nôn nao, háo hức muốn có mặt ngay ở quê nhà để nhận diện “Con đường hàng tỉnh tôi đi/Ba mươi năm ấy có gì đổi thay!”...

 

Máy bay cất cánh. Bầu trời thẳm xanh. Sài thành hoa lệ dần lùi xa. Tôi thong thả tựa lưng vào ghế, trầm ngâm nghĩ ngợi về nơi cội nguồn. Hồi học cấp III, khi đọc sách Địa dư tỉnh Phú Yên của Nguyễn Đình Cẩm và Trần Sĩ xuất bản năm 1938, tôi nhớ ở trang 31 có đoạn viết: “Tuy Hòa không phải là thành phố có đã lâu (hồi đó các đô thị nhỏ cũng quen gọi là thành phố). Độ hai mươi năm về trước, Tuy Hòa là bãi tha ma, rải rác đôi túp lều tranh vài ba cái phố ngói…”. Vào đầu thập niên 20 của thế kỷ XX, Tuy Hòa là thế. Qua đầu thập niên 30, Tuy Hòa bắt đầu chỉnh trang về đường sá, phát triển thương mại. Cũng theo sách này, sau khi hoàng đế Bảo Đại vặn con ốc cuối cùng trên thiết lộ xuyên Đông Dương nối liền Nam - Bắc tại km1222 về phía nam ga Hảo Sơn, chuyến tàu hỏa đầu tiên tiến vào ga Tuy Hòa vào ngày 1/10/1936. Tuy Hòa nằm sát biển, nên cũng thuận lợi cho vận chuyển biển, nhiều thuyền buồm lớn từ cửa Đà Diễn cũng ra khơi, đã đến các cảng Sài Gòn, Hải Phòng và cả Hồng Kông... Sau ngày Tổng khởi nghĩa, Cách mạng Tháng Tám 1945, nhân dân Tuy Hòa hăm hở đón mừng ngày độc lập. Nhưng chỉ ít lâu sau, người Pháp âm mưu trở lại Đông Dương. Hồ Chủ tịch ra “Lời kêu gọi toàn quốc kháng chiến”. Tuy Hòa phải chịu chung số phận của cả nước, nhưng khắc nghiệt hơn nhiều nơi khác vì Tuy Hòa là địa đầu của giới tuyến... Và trải qua bao biến cố lịch sử, qua hai cuộc kháng chiến chống Pháp, Mỹ cứu nước, cùng với cả nước, TX Tuy Hòa và tỉnh Phú Yên được hoàn toàn giải phóng tháng 4/1975. Từ đó, TX Tuy Hòa được đầu tư phát triển nhanh hơn...

 

Ký ức tuổi thơ gắn với dòng sông Ba, con đò, với con đường, trường học thân yêu... chợt ùa về trong tâm trí tôi. Tôi sinh ra và lớn lên ở làng cá Phú Câu nằm sát hạ lưu con sông Ba êm ả và thơ mộng. Trước mặt nhà tôi, ông ngoại trồng mấy bụi tre, quanh năm xõa bóng xuống dòng sông. Ba tôi bỏ đi biền biệt, còn mẹ buôn gánh bán bưng. Ngày ngày, ngoài giờ học, ba anh em tôi lại ra bụi tre lấy chiếc sõng đi giăng lưới bắt cá. Hồi ấy, ở cửa sông Ba, cá nhiều vô kể. Dân xóm tôi chủ yếu làm nghề biển. Dù tàu thuyền nhỏ nhưng đánh bắt được nhiều cá, nhất là cá chuồn đổ thành từng đống to như những đụn rơm, bán rẻ như cho. Dân xóm tôi quanh năm đối mặt với cát bay cát nhảy, bởi gió biển thông thốc qua những “vú” cát ở dọc dài bờ biển. Dân ở nội thị sống quần cư theo các con đường chính Trần Hưng Đạo, Lê Lợi, đường số 6 (nay là đường Nguyễn Huệ)... Cơ sở hạ tầng, công sở, trường học... xây dựng chưa nhiều. Có một nhà máy nhiệt điện đủ cung cấp ánh sáng cho toàn nội thị. Trường học thu hút nhiều học sinh nhất là Trường THPT Nguyễn Huệ. Những năm 1977, 1978, khi học cấp III (lớp 10 D7, lớp 11 D4) ở trường này, tôi làm lớp trưởng, còn bạn Phạm Hiếu Vinh làm lớp phó học tập. Vinh với tôi thân nhau như anh em ruột, cùng chụm đầu giải toán, cùng nhà trường đi khai quang phục hóa ở Sơn Thành, Lỗ Rong, trồng cây chắn gió biển... Mấy năm trước, Vinh lần tìm được địa chỉ của tôi rồi liên lạc bảo rằng, bạn làm bác sĩ và đã lên chức Phó giám đốc Bệnh viện Đa khoa Phú Yên. Cái thằng Vinh “bé hạt tiêu”, tinh nghịch nhưng học giỏi ngày ấy, bây giờ đã thành đạt trong cuộc sống! Còn tôi, sau năm học chung lớp 11 với Vinh, định mệnh cuộc đời bỗng chốc chuyển sang ngả rẽ khác, cuối cùng định cư ở bang California (Mỹ) cho đến ngày hôm nay...

 

Đang miên man nhớ về tuổi thơ, thì cô tiếp viên hàng không thông báo máy bay sắp hạ cánh xuống sân bay Tuy Hòa. Tôi nhìn đồng hồ. Chỉ hơn một giờ bay từ TP Hồ Chí Minh về Tuy Hòa, nhanh quá, thuận lợi quá!

 

Mẹ đã mất, cậu ruột tôi – ông Phan Quy Sách – ra sân bay đón tôi về ở nhà số 27/19 Nguyễn Công Trứ, phường 4, TP Tuy Hòa. Sau bữa cơm mừng đoàn tụ, cậu Sách giới thiệu đứa con rể làm nhà báo nắm bắt được nhiều chuyện “thời sự” để chuyện trò thâu đêm. Những ngày sau đó, tôi “bắt cóc” người làm báo để làm “hướng dẫn viên” bất đắc dĩ cho tôi đi qua từng góc phố để thăm thú, nhận diện thành phố trẻ quê mình. Tôi ngỡ ngàng, không tin vào mắt mình trước một Tuy Hòa vốn nhỏ “như lòng bàn tay”, bây giờ được chỉnh trang to đẹp. So với ngày tôi xa quê, phố phường quá khác lạ, những khu nhà xập xệ, nhàu nhĩ nơi tôi ở không còn nữa; đồi cát gần biển, nghĩa địa... giờ lên phố.

 

Theo lời thuyết minh của “người làm báo”, chỉ sau mấy năm sau khi từ thị xã lên thành phố (5/1/2005), Tuy Hòa bỗng “thoát xác”, những công trình xây dựng mọc lên, nhà cao tầng xuất hiện ở nhiều nơi trong phố. Nhìn Tuy Hòa thời mở cửa, thời kỳ “quy hoạch chia lô” lên ngôi, tôi như cảm nhận đã thiếu vắng hẳn những bóng cây quen thuộc. Trên đại lộ Hùng Vương đã mọc lên các khu đô thị mới FBS, Hưng Phú, khu công nghiệp An Phú, cùng hàng loạt biệt thự, khách sạn như Kaya, Hùng Vương... TP Tuy Hòa phát triển mạnh về phía đông bắc làm thay đổi cảnh sắc của một vùng quê vốn yên tĩnh. Ở phía tây thành phố, khu du lịch Thuận Thảo khá đẹp và thu hút nhiều khách. Quốc lộ 1A ngày nào giờ đã biến thành con đường nội ô luôn tươi màu sắc hoa và rực sáng khi đêm về. Thành phố đang mở rộng về phía Nam, đến tận cảng Vũng Rô, với một dự án kỳ vĩ là xây dựng khu đô thị Nam Tuy Hòa hiện đại rộng 350ha... Trước mặt nhà tôi, giờ chẳng còn bụi tre nào, thay vào đó là con đường Bạch Đằng ven sông rất thơ mộng và chiếc cầu Hùng Vương mới khánh thành trước Tết Tân Mão. Bến cảng phường 6 tàu thuyền ra vào tấp nập. Nghề câu cá ngừ xuất khẩu ở làng biển Phú Câu (phường 6) đã trở thành điển hình trong cả nước. Tỉnh đang chạy đua hoàn thiện những công trình để phục vụ Đại lễ 400 Phú Yên và Năm Du lịch quốc gia Duyên hải Nam Trung Bộ - Phú Yên 2011. Nhờ vậy, TP Tuy Hòa thêm nhộn nhịp, đêm rực rỡ ánh đèn đủ màu sắc. Tôi chợt nhận ra TP Tuy Hòa như “nàng công chúa” ngủ quên, bỗng choàng tỉnh dậy trong “chiếc áo mới” sang trọng...

 

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Vẻ hiện đại của đô thị Tuy Hòa. – Ảnh: T.QUỚI

 

Chiều nay, ngồi bên chân sóng và nhìn những hàng dương xanh ngát, lao xao bên bờ biển như nét chấm phá tôn tạo vẻ đẹp thành phố, tôi phát hiện bãi biển Tuy Hòa đẹp, nhưng còn hoang sơ quá. Từ thiên đường du lịch ở California, tôi nghĩ, ngoài chương trình kinh tế biển, Tuy Hòa nên hướng đến chiến lược quan trọng là phát triển thành phố du lịch hấp dẫn bằng cách đánh thức tiềm năng từ những cảnh quan thiên nhiên thơ mộng như: bãi biển Tuy Hòa, bãi biển Long Thủy, núi Nhạn, sông Đà Rằng... Lợi thế phát triển ngành công nghiệp “không khói” sẽ được phát huy khi tỉnh Phú Yên đang chú trọng đẩy mạnh đầu tư hạ tầng du lịch, liên kết với các tỉnh duyên hải miền Trung, TP Hồ Chí Minh để phát triển du lịch. Để tạo dấu ấn du lịch, TP Tuy Hòa phải luôn chủ động, nồng hậu đón du khách ở cả tầm vĩ mô và vi mô; làm sao để du khách đến với Tuy Hòa được thỏa mái thưởng ngoạn, thăm thú, khám phá giá trị văn hóa trong chiều sâu cội nguồn... chứ không có cảnh “một đi không trở lại”. Thêm ước vọng mong muốn khu kinh tế Nam Phú Yên và Khu kinh tế Vân Phong (Khánh Hòa) nằm cận kề nhau cùng sớm xây dựng hoàn thành, đưa vào hoạt động. Đây được xem là hạt nhân tăng trưởng kinh tế, trung tâm đô thị - công nghiệp - dịch vụ - du lịch của khu vực Nam Trung Bộ; là “điểm nhấn” tạo nên hành lang kinh tế Đông – Tây mới của nước ta, phục vụ đắc lực cho công cuộc phát triển kinh tế và quốc phòng của cả khu vực Tây Nguyên rộng lớn, mở ra cơ hội lớn cho vùng đông bắc Campuchia, Nam Lào và một phần Thái Lan gần hơn với biển.

 

Người dân Tuy Hòa vốn hiền hậu, chất phác, sống có lòng nhiệt huyết, có lý tưởng, có hoài bão và có tinh thần tập thể. Họ đem trí tuệ, sức sáng tạo, khát vọng đóng góp sức mình xây dựng quê hương đất nước. Quyết tâm xây dựng một đô thị Tuy Hòa đàng hoàng hơn, to đẹp hơn..., đó chính là ước mơ, là kỳ vọng của Phú Yên. Tôi sẽ trở lại California, mang theo ước vọng cháy bỏng là gặp gỡ, làm cầu nối mời gọi cộng đồng những người dân Việt Nam đang sinh sống tại đây có điều kiện về Tuy Hòa đầu tư công nghiệp, du lịch... để góp sức đánh thức năng lực tiềm ẩn của quê hương yêu dấu.

 

PHAN HỒNG LỢI

(Việt kiều ở bang California, Mỹ)

LƯU PHONG (ghi)

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Chóp Chài đội mũ!

Trong ký ức của ngày tôi còn nhỏ, núi Chóp Chài luôn là núi cao nhất, to nhất vì nhà tôi, làng tôi ở ngay dưới chân núi. Tôi hay ngửa cổ đến “trật mũ” nhìn lên núi vì má tôi hay nhắc câu “Chóp Chài đội mũ/ Mây phủ Đá Bia” Mũ tôi bị rớt xuống đất hoài mà tôi vẫn chưa tìm ra ai là người đội mũ cho núi, chỉ thấy khi thì mây trắng nhởn nhơ, khi thì mây đen bao phủ hay cây lá lơ thơ trên chỏm núi Chóp Chài!

 

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Chùa Bảo Lâm dưới chân núi Chóp Chài - Ảnh: N.QUANG

 

Tôi lớn lên, được đi nhiều nơi, được học nhiều chữ nhưng quê nhà, má tôi và núi Chóp Chài vẫn là một cõi đi về gần gũi và linh thiêng. Sông núi là tự nhiên, vô tình, nhưng với tôi núi Chóp Chài luôn có mối liên hệ tơ vương mà bền chặt.

 

Tôi thương núi đứng mồ côi một mình vì khác với dãy Trường Sơn phía Tây liên hoàn, hùng vĩ, núi Chóp Chài cũng như núi Nhạn, núi Miếu là những hòn núi lẻ, độc lập. Các nhà khoa học cho rằng cách đây hàng triệu năm vùng này có thể là biển, trải qua những chấn động địa chất và phù sa bồi lắng, từ một hòn cù lao hoặc đá ngầm nhỏ đã thành nên ngọn núi này. Đứng ở giữa làng xóm bao bọc nhưng hình như nỗi nhớ biển khơi vẫn ngày đêm tha thiết, nên dáng núi giống hình con rùa khổng lồ quay đầu về phía Đông. Biển chỉ cách núi chừng hơn 2km. Người ta đặt tên núi Chóp Chài là Quy Sơn vì lẽ đó! Phía giáp với đường Quốc lộ 1 là chỗ đầu rùa. Hành khách trên những chuyến xe bắc - nam đều ngạc nhiên thú vị khi thấy từ chân núi một con đường lớn trải nhựa chạy lượn vòng lên đỉnh. Núi sao quá gần gũi với con người! Từ nơi mà người ta hay gọi tên giản dị là “cổ rùa” ấy đi bao bọc quanh chân núi là làng quê, đồng ruộng thanh bình nối tiếp nhau. Hiếm có nơi nào đẹp và thi vị như nơi này. Ở sát chân núi Chóp Chài phía đông là làng Liên Trì (“Liên Trì dục nguyệt”/ trăng tắm ao sen). Liên Trì bây giờ thiếu vắng những ao sen, nhưng hương vị sen ngày cũ dường như vẫn còn bảng lảng đâu đây trong những vườn cây lá xanh tươi, nhà cửa khang trang, trù phú. Sát chân núi Chóp Chài phía nam là làng Phước Hậu. Làng Phước Hậu trong Trường ca Ở làng Phước Hậu nổi tiếng của Trần Vũ Mai có đồng ruộng rộng và màu mỡ. Phía tây là cánh đồng Tường Quang, Thọ Vức.

 

Cách đây hơn nửa thế kỷ, núi Chóp Chài còn hoang sơ lắm. Trên núi có nhiều cây cổ thụ, dây leo và nhiều loại chim thú quý hiếm. Tôi nhớ trước đây má tôi vẫn thường mua thịt nai, thịt mển, heo rừng, chồn, cheo…, người ta bẫy được trên núi đem bán. Tại cái xóm Hóc nhỏ bé dựa sát vào chân núi của tôi nhìn ra cánh đồng còn có nhiều cò, cuốc, sáo, cu cườm… Những loại chim vốn thích nghi vùng đồng nước đã từng quy tụ về đây đông đúc làm nên một sân chim nhỏ. Bây giờ người đông, không chỉ muông thú mà chim chóc cũng vắng bóng dần, chỉ còn lại trên cánh đồng là những con cò trắng với dáng dấp vừa đài các, thanh tao vừa lam lũ, tảo tần. Má tôi cũng giống như con cò. Suốt ngày ở ngoài đồng và thường chỉ về nhà khi bóng chiều đã chập choạng trên ngạch cửa. Ba tôi mất sớm, má tôi như ngọn núi cô lẻ, đơn độc. Tôi lớn lên và trộn quê hương vào trong hình ảnh má mình!

 

Với tôi, núi Chóp Chài không chỉ che chở con người mà còn là chỗ dựa của niềm tin, nơi lưu giữ những giá trị tinh thần thuần khiết. Hòn núi nhỏ bé này có tới bốn ngôi chùa: Khánh Sơn, Minh Sơn, Hồ Sơn và Bảo Lâm. Chùa Hồ Sơn được tạo lập cách đây 300 năm và mới xây lại từ năm 1975. Chùa Bảo Lâm ở phía đông chân núi, có tượng Phật Thích Ca cao 15m tọa trên đài sen cao dựa lưng vào vách núi. Tôi thương chùa Khánh Sơn và chùa Minh Sơn nhất. Đó là những ngôi chùa nghèo nằm cheo leo trên sườn núi. Muốn lên chùa phải trèo lên những bậc đá dốc cao và dài. Chùa Khánh Sơn có vị thế rất đẹp: Chùa dựa vào núi, mặt quay về hướng nam nhìn ra cánh đồng bao la. Chùa Minh Sơn hay còn gọi là chùa Hang ở thôn Minh Đức đích thị là một hang đá trên núi với những tảng đá to dựng thành vách có mái che kín đáo. Nơi đây tương truyền rằng vào cuối thế kỷ XVIII, thiền sư Pháp Tạng, một nhánh của phái Thiền Lâm Tế đến ẩn tu và đắc đạo. Sau đó các vị sư kế nghiệp đến trụ trì và tu hành ở đây gọi là chùa Tổ. Chùa nằm trên núi, thanh âm của kinh kệ và tiếng chuông chùa dường như được lọc qua cây lá, qua gió núi, mây ngàn, trở nên trong trẻo và thanh tịnh lạ kỳ. Tôi quen với âm thanh ấy, với những ngôi chùa hẻo lánh ấy đến nỗi có cảm giác lạ khi đến thăm những ngôi chùa ở ngay giữa thành phố đông đúc, ồn ào tiếng xe, tiếng người qua lại.

 

Nhà tôi ngay dưới chân núi nên tôi thường lên chùa Khánh Sơn học bài. Buổi trưa, một mình ôm vở chạy lên dốc, một mình với các bậc đá và cây cối, suối nước. Leo lên và thở. Đã có lần tôi chạy một hơi tới đích. Một lần tôi trượt chân té lăn xuống dốc, may mà có một cây sim dại và tảng đá to bên cạnh chắn lại. Hú vía! Tôi đứng lên và tới giờ vẫn bàng hoàng mỗi khi nhớ lại lần tai nạn chỉ âm thầm một mình tôi và dốc đá chùa Khánh Sơn chứng giám. Tôi thuộc mùi thị thơm, tìm ra trái sim chín, trái mít chín nhanh hơn thuộc bài. Tưởng như cây lá đã là một phần của tâm hồn tôi.

 

Chiến tranh lan rộng và ác liệt hơn vào thập niên 60 và 70 của thế kỷ trước. Vùng núi Chóp Chài trở thành nơi tranh chấp căng thẳng giữa hai phía. Chính quyền Sài Gòn cho xây dựng sân bay Chóp Chài và tăng cường binh lực tại đây, trong khi chính quyền Mặt trận Giải phóng miền Nam cũng ngày một mạnh lên, muốn vùng núi Chóp Chài thành khu căn cứ giải phóng. Quân lính Đại Hàn đánh thuê cho Mỹ từng thống lĩnh núi Chóp Chài, gieo rắc biết bao tội ác tại đây. Trên đỉnh núi, ngọn đèn đỏ hằng đêm soi xét, dòm ngó nhưng quân dân du kích và cả bộ đội Giải phóng vẫn bám vào dân, ở ngay trong làng Phước Hậu, Liên Trì đánh địch. Ban ngày người dân vẫn đi làm ruộng, những chiếc xe chở lính, xe tăng chà xát trên đường quốc lộ ngang qua núi Chóp Chài. Ban đêm bom đạn rơi nổ liên tục quanh núi. Từ trong núi, những người lính cách mạng lặng lẽ, quyết liệt áp sát TP Tuy Hòa. Má tôi kể quận lỵ mới chưa xây xong đã bị quân cách mạng giật sập; máy bay trực thăng tại sân bay Chóp Chài cất cánh liên tục nhưng cũng không nhanh bằng những người lính chân đi dép cao su.

 

Ngày 1/4/1975, Tuy Hòa được giải phóng. Núi Nhạn, núi Chóp Chài tự do. Lần đầu tiên sau bao nhiêu năm giấc ngủ không có tiếng bom đạn thật thanh bình, hạnh phúc, tôi nhớ có một buổi sáng má tôi bắt được con gà rừng lạc từ trên núi xuống. Tôi nhớ mấy lần cả trường tôi cùng nhau đi diệt chuột trên cánh đồng Tường Quang, Thọ Vức, đi trồng sắn trên vùng núi Cẩm Tú. Tôi nhớ có lần lớp tôi rủ nhau lên núi hái củi gây quỹ lớp. Củi chỉ có được mấy bó lèo tèo, nhưng cảm giác được khám phá rừng núi bí hiểm thật là thích.

 

Tôi đi xa, núi vẫn ở lại với quê nhà như má tôi. Tôi lớn lên, già đi mà núi vẫn là “núi non”! Mỗi lần về quê, bóng núi Chóp Chài vẫn giúp tôi định vị phương hướng, tọa độ. Thiên nhiên như lòng mẹ độ lượng và bao dung. Đêm nghe má tôi hát câu ru ngày cũ: “Núi Chóp Chài cao chi lắm bấy / Trông hũy trông hoài không thấy người thương…”, tự dưng thấy thương cho cái người thất tình trong câu hát: Không dám nói ra, không dám bày tỏ mà chỉ biết loanh quanh trông ngóng chi trên… chóp núi! Vậy nên trong tình quê có cái tình sông núi sâu nặng biết bao! Tôi hiểu ra rằng con người không nên chỉ biết dựa vào tự nhiên mà còn cần phải bảo vệ, che chở cho tự nhiên. Nhìn lên núi cao và tôi cảm nhận được nỗi buồn của núi khi thiếu vắng cây xanh, khi sườn vách ngày một trơ trọi và không còn tiếng chim chóc, tiếng muông thú gọi bầy! Núi Chóp Chài cần được yêu thương, cần “đội mũ”!

 

Tôi ước mai đây, đặc biệt trong dịp kỷ niệm 400 năm tỉnh Phú Yên hình thành và phát triển này, người ta sẽ có dịp bàn đến một dự án phát triển vùng núi Chóp Chài thành một khu văn hóa liên hoàn với nhiều dịch vụ thu hút khách tham quan. Và trước hết là trồng cây xanh phủ che núi. Có thể sẽ xây nhà hàng, khách sạn hoặc cáp treo lên núi, nhưng điều tôi mong nhất vẫn là lưu giữ một vùng quê thanh bình mà trung tâm chính là ngọn núi. Làng Liên Trì sẽ trồng sen, làng Phước Hậu sẽ chuyên trồng hoa, cây cảnh. Sân chim sẽ khôi phục lại, sẽ có khu bảo tồn động vật hoang dã trên núi. Những ngôi chùa, di tích sẽ được tu bổ khang trang. Chuông chùa Minh Sơn, Khánh Sơn sẽ ngân nga trong gió núi. Chỗ chân núi nơi giải thoát luật sư Nguyễn Hữu Thọ sẽ có nhà tưởng niệm và từ “cổ rùa” đường lên núi sẽ là một công viên cây xanh hiện đại…

 

Tôi ước núi Chóp Chài sẽ không đội cái mũ mây đen xám xịt của những ngày mưa buồn. Mũ của núi phải là cây lá thật xanh, thật dày từ chân đến đỉnh núi. Núi Chóp Chài sẽ là ngọn núi cổ kính mà xanh tươi; thâm trầm, huyền bí mà vẫn trẻ trung, hiện đại. Điện sẽ sáng ngày đêm trên đỉnh núi, cây lá sẽ hát bài ca của thiên nhiên tự do và tôi – tôi sẽ luôn nhìn lên đỉnh núi bằng tất cả lòng biết ơn của một người có quê hương!


ÁI THOA


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